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What is Setsubun

Setsubun, which translates to “seasonal division,” marks the day before spring in the traditional Japanese calendar.  Traditionally, it’s accompanied by rituals and other customs associated with driving away last year’s bad fortunes and welcome good fortune for the new season. 

Historically, Setsubun was closely tied to the lunar new year, as it falls shortly after what was once considered the start of the year in Japan’s pre-Gregorian calendar. The date varies slightly each year, typically landing on February 2nd, 3rd, or 4th. 

With roots in Chinese folk traditions dating back over a thousand years, Setsubun was introduced to Japan in the 8th century (700s) and has since evolved into a uniquely Japanese celebration. Today, it is part of Haru Matsuri (Spring Festival) and closely linked to Risshun, the first day of spring. 

Setsubun traditions 

There are a few things traditionally done at Setsubun to ward off bad fortune and help bring prosperity and good luck in the new year. The most widely recognized tradition is throwing beans. 

This ritual is called mamemaki, and is where roasted soybeans (fukumame, 福豆) are thrown to drive away bad spirits. Families scatter beans around their homes—or sometimes at a family member dressed as an oni (demon)—while chanting: “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” There are a few different versions of its translation, but it roughly means “Out with demons!, In with good fortune!” After scattering soybeans through the house, everyone eats a bean for each year of their age to help bring good luck. 

Another tradition for warding off demons involves attaching sardine heads to holly sprigs and placing them at the house entryway, as both are believed to repel malevolent spirits. This custom, called hiiragi iwashi (literally “holly sardine”), is based on the legend that evil spirits despise the pungent smell of sardines and fear being pricked by the sharp holly leaves. Together, they serve as a protective charm, safeguarding the home and inviting good fortune and health for the coming year. And don’t worry—the sardines are cooked! 

Another Setsubun tradition, and probably the most appealing — certainly the most delicious — is the eating of ehomaki. 

If you’re familiar with sushi, you might recognize part of the word ehomaki. Maki refers to rolled sushi, which is what many in North America picture when they think of sushi. Ehomaki is a special type of sushi roll eaten specifically for Setsubun. Unlike typical sushi rolls, it remains uncut and is eaten whole in multiple bites. 

Each ehomaki contains seven ingredients, symbolizing good luck—though the specific fillings can vary as long as there are seven. According to tradition, eating it in silence while facing the year’s designated lucky direction and making a wish is believed to bring good fortune in the coming year. 

Originally popularized in the Kansai region, ehomaki has since become a widespread tradition throughout Japan. 

Celebrating Setsubun with the edible good fortune of ehomaki 

Along with enjoying roasted soybeans after the mamemaki ritual, eating ehomaki is one of the most delicious ways to celebrate Setsubun. 

If you’ve never made sushi before, don’t be intimidated — it’s easier to prepare than many people expect, though mastering it is another story. 

As with all sushi, the rice is absolutely crucial. While professional sushi chefs spend years perfecting their technique, there are a few key steps you can follow to ensure your rice turns out just right: 

The first step is to wash the rice thoroughly. 

Be gentle enough to avoid breaking the grains but thorough enough to remove excess starch. A key indicator is the clarity of the water—while the first rinse will be cloudy and opaque, after multiple washes, the water should run mostly clear. This step is crucial because too much residual starch can make the rice overly sticky and clump together unpleasantly, rather than allowing each grain to retain its individual texture. 

The second detail that separates sushi rice from other rice is seasoning it with vinegar. 

Sushi rice has to be vinegared — that’s what makes it sushi rice!  However, you don’t want to add so much rice vinegar that it overpowers the flavor. The goal is a subtle, refreshing acidity. A good rule of thumb is a ratio of six parts dry rice to one part vinegar. Ideally, heat the vinegar slightly in a saucepan with a bit of salt and sugar to help dissolve them before letting it cool. 

Once the rice is fully cooked and still hot, spread it out in a wide container and gently fold in the seasoned vinegar to distribute it evenly. Let the rice rest for about 30 minutes (depending on the quantity) until it’s warm but no longer too hot to handle. At this point, you’re ready to start making sushi! 

Rolling ehomaki follows the same process as any other maki sushi roll—place a sheet of nori down, spread a thin layer of rice over it, add your fillings, and roll it up. The one key difference? Unlike other sushi rolls, ehomaki is left uncut—so simply roll it up and enjoy it whole! 

The fun part is deciding which seven fillings to put in. If you can’t make up your mind, consider options like: 

  • Salmon 
  • Crab 
  • Cucumber 
  • Tamago (Japanese omelette) 
  • Sakura-denbu 
  • Avocado 
  • Simmered shiitake mushrooms 
  • Shiso 
  • Radish sprout 
  • Scallop 
  • Squid 
  • Roe 

Feeling extra fancy or creative? Some people even use fillings like wagyu beef—because why not? Yum. 

Setsubun is a refreshing, hopeful celebration that welcomes spring and the new year ahead. It’s the perfect time to toss some soybeans, make a wish with loved ones, and enjoy a delicious, lucky ehomaki!